TENRECS
Overview
Tenrecs are small mammals in the family Tenrecidae, which are native to Madagascar and a few areas of mainland Africa. There are 34 species of tenrec, with a large range of diversity between the various members of this group. They are a prime example of convergent evolution, which is the independent development of similar characteristics between completely unrelated lineages. Just as birds, bats, and certain insects all evolved the ability to fly without being at all related to each other, different species of are similar in appearance to shrews, opossums, mice, otters, and hedgehogs as a result of filling a similar niche in their environment.
Of the many species of tenrecs, there are two that superficially resemble hedgehogs: the Greater Hedgehog Tenrec and the Lesser Hedgehog Tenrec. The inclusion of "hedgehog" in their names can be misleading - it is because of that resemblance, not because they are related to hedgehogs. The closest relatives to tenrecs, through a common ancestor, are actually elephants, sea cows, hyraxes, and aardvarks.
While there are a handful of tenrec species commonly kept as pets in the UK and Europe, the only species that is currently available in the US is the Lesser Hedgehog Tenrec. The species is relatively new in this country, and was not imported in great numbers like African Pygmy Hedgehogs, so the US population remains very small. There are only about 100-150 individuals in the US, the majority which are in zoos or owned by breeders.
Lesser Hedgehog Tenrecs (which will hereafter simply be referred to as "tenrecs") have become more recognizable in the last few years, whereas they previously had been almost completely unknown in the realm of exotic pets. They often appeal to people who have experience owning hedgehogs, because of their similarities. However, tenrecs are actually very different from hedgehogs in many ways, and the two animals are not at all interchangeable.
Of the many species of tenrecs, there are two that superficially resemble hedgehogs: the Greater Hedgehog Tenrec and the Lesser Hedgehog Tenrec. The inclusion of "hedgehog" in their names can be misleading - it is because of that resemblance, not because they are related to hedgehogs. The closest relatives to tenrecs, through a common ancestor, are actually elephants, sea cows, hyraxes, and aardvarks.
While there are a handful of tenrec species commonly kept as pets in the UK and Europe, the only species that is currently available in the US is the Lesser Hedgehog Tenrec. The species is relatively new in this country, and was not imported in great numbers like African Pygmy Hedgehogs, so the US population remains very small. There are only about 100-150 individuals in the US, the majority which are in zoos or owned by breeders.
Lesser Hedgehog Tenrecs (which will hereafter simply be referred to as "tenrecs") have become more recognizable in the last few years, whereas they previously had been almost completely unknown in the realm of exotic pets. They often appeal to people who have experience owning hedgehogs, because of their similarities. However, tenrecs are actually very different from hedgehogs in many ways, and the two animals are not at all interchangeable.
Handling and Behavior
Daily handling is ideal, both to keep them socialized and accustomed to interaction with people, and to be able to get the most out of the relationship. They do not require focused, high-intensity attention, and instead do very well simply being with a person in whatever context best fits that individual's lifestyle and routine. They are not particularly delicate - they can be manhandled, turned on their back, pet and stroked, and generally messed with in various ways.
They are considered a solitary animal, but tenrecs thrive on regular interaction and attention from their owners. They are capable of developing strong bonds and make excellent companions. Given the chance, they will explore, climb, and squeeze into small spaces, but they are not considered "flighty" and do not move so quickly that they will escape if they are not being held at all times. They are nocturnal, and in their cage will be most active when it's dark, but they can be handled at any time of the day. Interaction tends to be more active and animated closer to the evening, with a tendency toward more sleeping and cuddling earlier in the day.
Tenrecs are very capable and agile climbers. They have grasping toes with hooked claws on all of their feet, and can keep an impressive grip on all but the smoothest surfaces. They can support their weight with just one foot or even one toe while reaching for something else to grab onto. In addition to various objects within the enclosure, they enjoy just about any kind of environment that allows for exploration and climbing, and will happily use a person as a jungle gym.
Although tenrecs have quills, they are almost always laid down flat and not prickled up. A tenrec with fully erect quills is comparable to a bristly hairbrush. They do not often raise their quills; it is most common when they are first woken up, and short-lived. They are capable of curling fully into a ball, but rarely do so. When stressed, they are more likely to bite than ball up, but this is very uncommon in tenrecs that have been well socialized. Overall, they are not very defensive or shy animals, but curious and outgoing.
They are considered a solitary animal, but tenrecs thrive on regular interaction and attention from their owners. They are capable of developing strong bonds and make excellent companions. Given the chance, they will explore, climb, and squeeze into small spaces, but they are not considered "flighty" and do not move so quickly that they will escape if they are not being held at all times. They are nocturnal, and in their cage will be most active when it's dark, but they can be handled at any time of the day. Interaction tends to be more active and animated closer to the evening, with a tendency toward more sleeping and cuddling earlier in the day.
Tenrecs are very capable and agile climbers. They have grasping toes with hooked claws on all of their feet, and can keep an impressive grip on all but the smoothest surfaces. They can support their weight with just one foot or even one toe while reaching for something else to grab onto. In addition to various objects within the enclosure, they enjoy just about any kind of environment that allows for exploration and climbing, and will happily use a person as a jungle gym.
Although tenrecs have quills, they are almost always laid down flat and not prickled up. A tenrec with fully erect quills is comparable to a bristly hairbrush. They do not often raise their quills; it is most common when they are first woken up, and short-lived. They are capable of curling fully into a ball, but rarely do so. When stressed, they are more likely to bite than ball up, but this is very uncommon in tenrecs that have been well socialized. Overall, they are not very defensive or shy animals, but curious and outgoing.
Housing
Tenrecs are usually housed individually, and do not need company from another tenrec. However, females can usually be cohabitated without any problems, either with a male or another female. Two males cannot be housed together, and will fight.
A comfortable enclosure size for a pair of tenrecs is approximately 18"x30" at the minimum, or slightly smaller for an individual. The floor of the cage should be solid. For wire-topped cages, the spacing between the bars should be as small as possible, as tenrecs are quite small and can make themselves much smaller when trying to squeeze through a small space. An enclosure with solid walls, such as a vivarium or a large, clear bin (with modified lid), is a better option.
The enclosure must have adequate space for a wheel, various climbing obstacles, and at least one (preferably several) hideaways. The best objects for climbing are textured to allow for an easy grip with their claws, such as wood/logs and various fleece or fabric items (i.e. for rats and sugar gliders). They need bowls for kibble, insects/treats, and water; they do not use water bottles.
A wheel is required and, along with hunting insects, it is the main source of exercise and enrichment. The wheel should be at least 9" in diameter. Both wire and solid-surfaced wheels can be used; they should be open-faced without crossbars. Because tenrecs have fairly dextrous feet with grasping toes, they utilize a wire wheel differently than a solid wheel. A solid wheel, such as a bucket wheel, is primarily used for running, whereas a wire wheel functions as a sort of climbing toy, with the tenrec often "climbing in place" on the back or outside of the wheel. If there is enough space in the enclosure, providing one of each kind of wheel would provide additional options for enrichment and entertainment.
Options for bedding include aspen or pine shavings (never cedar), mulch, paper-based bedding (i.e. Carefresh), or fleece or sewn fabric liners. They enjoy burrowing into their bedding and collecting it into their preferred hiding spot, so the use of liners can be together with small blankets and strips of fleece to accommodate that without the messiness of other substrates.
Tenrecs groom and clean themselves with sand, and will use a sand bath if they are provided with one. This can be a shallow bowl large enough for them to sit in or a small plastic bucket or container with an entry hole cut in the side. The sand should only be chinchilla sand or a similar fine sand manufactured for pet uses.
Most tenrecs will choose a preferred spot in the case to do their business; sometimes this is even in the sand bath. Once the preferred area is established, a shallow tray can be placed there to collect their droppings and make for easy clean up. This is not necessary, as tenrecs produce small poops which are not very messy or smelly. Cage maintenance mostly involves spot cleaning, with an occasional full changing of the bedding or liner.
Tenrecs are typically not overly sensitive to temperature changes, although a very large or extended decrease can trigger torpor behavior, which should be avoided during the warmer months. During the spring and summer, the cage should be kept at "room temperature" (68-72 F) or higher during daytime; minor overnight drops are normal. In colder households (due to air conditioning), if persistent low activity is observed, or if a tenrec is particularly delayed in coming out of winter torpor, occasional supplementary heat may be beneficial, in the form of a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) with thermostat, localized space heater, or small animal heating pad under part of the cage. The majority of tenrecs do not require the use of a dedicated heat source by default, and because their bodies are designed to go through seasonal and even day/night temperature fluctuations, habitual strict regulation of the cage temperature may actually have detrimental effects. However, a digital thermometer in the cage is recommended to accurately monitor the temperature, in order to be aware of normal patterns or unusual changes. During autumn and winter, when in torpor, the cage can be kept in the 60s.
A comfortable enclosure size for a pair of tenrecs is approximately 18"x30" at the minimum, or slightly smaller for an individual. The floor of the cage should be solid. For wire-topped cages, the spacing between the bars should be as small as possible, as tenrecs are quite small and can make themselves much smaller when trying to squeeze through a small space. An enclosure with solid walls, such as a vivarium or a large, clear bin (with modified lid), is a better option.
The enclosure must have adequate space for a wheel, various climbing obstacles, and at least one (preferably several) hideaways. The best objects for climbing are textured to allow for an easy grip with their claws, such as wood/logs and various fleece or fabric items (i.e. for rats and sugar gliders). They need bowls for kibble, insects/treats, and water; they do not use water bottles.
A wheel is required and, along with hunting insects, it is the main source of exercise and enrichment. The wheel should be at least 9" in diameter. Both wire and solid-surfaced wheels can be used; they should be open-faced without crossbars. Because tenrecs have fairly dextrous feet with grasping toes, they utilize a wire wheel differently than a solid wheel. A solid wheel, such as a bucket wheel, is primarily used for running, whereas a wire wheel functions as a sort of climbing toy, with the tenrec often "climbing in place" on the back or outside of the wheel. If there is enough space in the enclosure, providing one of each kind of wheel would provide additional options for enrichment and entertainment.
Options for bedding include aspen or pine shavings (never cedar), mulch, paper-based bedding (i.e. Carefresh), or fleece or sewn fabric liners. They enjoy burrowing into their bedding and collecting it into their preferred hiding spot, so the use of liners can be together with small blankets and strips of fleece to accommodate that without the messiness of other substrates.
Tenrecs groom and clean themselves with sand, and will use a sand bath if they are provided with one. This can be a shallow bowl large enough for them to sit in or a small plastic bucket or container with an entry hole cut in the side. The sand should only be chinchilla sand or a similar fine sand manufactured for pet uses.
Most tenrecs will choose a preferred spot in the case to do their business; sometimes this is even in the sand bath. Once the preferred area is established, a shallow tray can be placed there to collect their droppings and make for easy clean up. This is not necessary, as tenrecs produce small poops which are not very messy or smelly. Cage maintenance mostly involves spot cleaning, with an occasional full changing of the bedding or liner.
Tenrecs are typically not overly sensitive to temperature changes, although a very large or extended decrease can trigger torpor behavior, which should be avoided during the warmer months. During the spring and summer, the cage should be kept at "room temperature" (68-72 F) or higher during daytime; minor overnight drops are normal. In colder households (due to air conditioning), if persistent low activity is observed, or if a tenrec is particularly delayed in coming out of winter torpor, occasional supplementary heat may be beneficial, in the form of a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) with thermostat, localized space heater, or small animal heating pad under part of the cage. The majority of tenrecs do not require the use of a dedicated heat source by default, and because their bodies are designed to go through seasonal and even day/night temperature fluctuations, habitual strict regulation of the cage temperature may actually have detrimental effects. However, a digital thermometer in the cage is recommended to accurately monitor the temperature, in order to be aware of normal patterns or unusual changes. During autumn and winter, when in torpor, the cage can be kept in the 60s.
Diet
In the wild, tenrecs are almost completely insectivorous, with the occasional fruit or meat if they come across it. While pet tenrecs can (and should) eat kibble, it's generally agreed upon that they should also have live insects as a large part of their diet (3-4 times a week at the minimum), for the sake of variety and enrichment. This can be supplemented with small amounts of fruit, cooked eggs or meat, or baby food.
A dry kibble or semi-hard pelleted food should be available at all times, though most tenrecs will eat from that supply sparingly, or only on days when live insects are not provided. Tenrecs can be particular about kibble, and sometimes it's necessary to try a few options before finding one that a particular tenrec deems acceptable. Whenever possible, it's best to continue whichever kibble they were introduced to by the breeder.
Zoos that keep tenrecs tend to lean heavily on various "insectivore diets", which generally don't have the best ingredients. Mazuri has historically worked well in large captive colonies, but in a pet context, there are many other options with greater emphasis on quality ingredients and overall variety. In either case, the protein content should be relatively high (at least 30%) and because they have a fairly high metabolism, the fat content can be high as well (up to 15-20%).
Most tenrecs will happily devour virtually any insect that they're offered, although they often snub dead ones (i.e. canned or dried). It's best to provide at least several different types of insects, to imitate the variety that they would have in the wild. Only feeder insects should be used (bought from a pet store or ordered from a feeder supply business online); wild-caught insects can have parasites or toxins. Tenrecs are capable of handling insects that are quite large in relation to their own body size, including full-size superworms, hornworms, or silkworms, or adult dubia roaches.
When a surplus of insects are available every day, tenrecs will sometimes snub kibble completely. This can often be remedied by reducing insects to only every other or every third day. Although tenrecs can be stubborn, complete refusal of a commercial balanced diet should not be tolerated - it is a serious dietary problem and when allowed to persist, causes a high risk of long-term deficiencies, especially MBD (metabolic bone disease). Likewise, pet tenrecs should also NOT deliberately be kept on an insect-only diet (even with gut-loading or added calcium dust), because it is very difficult to achieve the necessary balance of micro-nutrients.
In some cases, a commercial raw meat diet may be used as a staple instead of kibble. This should be boneless and designated as a "complete diet" (per the product label), and ideally modified with extra fiber.
A dry kibble or semi-hard pelleted food should be available at all times, though most tenrecs will eat from that supply sparingly, or only on days when live insects are not provided. Tenrecs can be particular about kibble, and sometimes it's necessary to try a few options before finding one that a particular tenrec deems acceptable. Whenever possible, it's best to continue whichever kibble they were introduced to by the breeder.
Zoos that keep tenrecs tend to lean heavily on various "insectivore diets", which generally don't have the best ingredients. Mazuri has historically worked well in large captive colonies, but in a pet context, there are many other options with greater emphasis on quality ingredients and overall variety. In either case, the protein content should be relatively high (at least 30%) and because they have a fairly high metabolism, the fat content can be high as well (up to 15-20%).
Most tenrecs will happily devour virtually any insect that they're offered, although they often snub dead ones (i.e. canned or dried). It's best to provide at least several different types of insects, to imitate the variety that they would have in the wild. Only feeder insects should be used (bought from a pet store or ordered from a feeder supply business online); wild-caught insects can have parasites or toxins. Tenrecs are capable of handling insects that are quite large in relation to their own body size, including full-size superworms, hornworms, or silkworms, or adult dubia roaches.
When a surplus of insects are available every day, tenrecs will sometimes snub kibble completely. This can often be remedied by reducing insects to only every other or every third day. Although tenrecs can be stubborn, complete refusal of a commercial balanced diet should not be tolerated - it is a serious dietary problem and when allowed to persist, causes a high risk of long-term deficiencies, especially MBD (metabolic bone disease). Likewise, pet tenrecs should also NOT deliberately be kept on an insect-only diet (even with gut-loading or added calcium dust), because it is very difficult to achieve the necessary balance of micro-nutrients.
In some cases, a commercial raw meat diet may be used as a staple instead of kibble. This should be boneless and designated as a "complete diet" (per the product label), and ideally modified with extra fiber.
Hibernation
Hibernation (also called torpor) is a normal part of a tenrec's yearly cycle. Torpor lasts for about 4-6 months during the winter (typically Sept/Oct through Feb/March). It is usually triggered by lower temperatures and/or seasonal changes in light, although it has been reported even in some tenrecs that are kept with the same temperature and light schedule year-round.
During torpor, tenrecs enter a state of extremely reduced activity and food intake. Their body temperature drops and their metabolism slows down. They feel very cool to the touch, which can be alarming to someone not accustomed to it. They are very sleepy and slow-going even when woken up, and will eat as little as just one piece of kibble every few days.
Handling during this time does not need to be reduced or avoided. Most of the interaction with a tenrec in torpor involves cuddling or letting them sleep on you. Sometimes after they're out for a little while, and get a little warmer from a person's hands or body heat, they will briefly become more perky and active, then quickly return to a state of perpetual sleepiness. Some breeders have found that when tenrecs are regularly woken up for short periods during torpor, they have an easier time coming out of it in the spring, and more easily regain the weight that was lost during that time.
It is currently unknown whether there are any long-term detrimental effects as a result of tenrecs being prevented from going into hibernation, so it's best to not discourage it. In most cases young tenrecs (those born the previous spring/summer) do not enter torpor in their first year, or only do so with a shorter duration and intensity compared to the torpor experienced by adults.
During torpor, tenrecs enter a state of extremely reduced activity and food intake. Their body temperature drops and their metabolism slows down. They feel very cool to the touch, which can be alarming to someone not accustomed to it. They are very sleepy and slow-going even when woken up, and will eat as little as just one piece of kibble every few days.
Handling during this time does not need to be reduced or avoided. Most of the interaction with a tenrec in torpor involves cuddling or letting them sleep on you. Sometimes after they're out for a little while, and get a little warmer from a person's hands or body heat, they will briefly become more perky and active, then quickly return to a state of perpetual sleepiness. Some breeders have found that when tenrecs are regularly woken up for short periods during torpor, they have an easier time coming out of it in the spring, and more easily regain the weight that was lost during that time.
It is currently unknown whether there are any long-term detrimental effects as a result of tenrecs being prevented from going into hibernation, so it's best to not discourage it. In most cases young tenrecs (those born the previous spring/summer) do not enter torpor in their first year, or only do so with a shorter duration and intensity compared to the torpor experienced by adults.
