Necessary Supplies
Below is a basic list of essential supplies for properly housing and caring for a tenrec, and should be acquired before bringing your tenrec home. (This list is NOT for hedgehogs - that list can be found here.)
Cage: Enclosure must be flat-bottomed with enough floor space for the necessary items (approx. 3 sq ft) and enough height to utilize for climbing (12" minimum); overall minimum space of 2-3 cubic feet. For wire cages, spacing should be max. 1/2" or covered with smaller mesh/plastic grating. (Options include: homemade vivariums, modified bins, Critter Nation, or Quality Cages.) (Note: During torpor, a smaller enclosure can be used in accordance with the reduced activity level.)
Wheel: Minimum 9" diameter and 3.5" running width. Should be open-faced (no crossbars). Can be wire grate (not just wire bars) and/or solid surface (i.e. bucket or comfort wheel). (Note: one of each type is ideal, because tenrecs will use wire as a climbing "toy" and solid for running - but only one or the other is mandatory.)
Hideaway: Minimum of one (on bottom level); preferably multiple (different kinds and placed at different heights). Large enough to accommodate an adult tenrec (approx. the size of a medium fist) with an entrance 2.5-3" in diameter. (Options include: wood logs, reptile rock caves, 3" PVC pipe, stay-open bags, ceramic pots, wood/plastic/fabric huts.)
Food: A high quality dry kibble, moderately high protein (30-33%) with small pieces. It is recommended to continue using what the breeder does. 1lb will typically last several months. (Note: insectivore food, such as Mazuri, has lower quality ingredients but has been used extensively by zoos with success.)
Insects: Live feeder insects, to be provided at least several times a week; daily is preferred. There should be a staple of at least two different kinds, with others included on rotation, and an overall variety of at least 5. (Note: any kind and size can be used, as long as they are bred/sold for feeder purposes - not from a bait store or wild-caught.)
Bowls: For kibble, insects, and water; can also have one for other treats. 1-2 oz capacity works best. Tenrecs do not use water bottles. (Note: bowls more than 2" diameter are more likely to get pooped in, and more than 2" height may be difficult to access or get knocked over.)
Bedding: Liners (sewn cotton/flannel, or fleece cut to size) or appropriate particulate bedding. (Options include: Kaytee or Carefresh, pine/aspen shavings, and similar.) (Note: pine/paper pellets are not suitable for the whole cage. NEVER cedar.)
Climbing items: Various accessories at various levels in the cage; both hanging and self-standing items. Close enough to each other to be easily reached, and with texture for easy gripping (avoid smooth surfaces that are too large for the toes to curl around). Fabric, natural/porous wood, and wire/metal/plastic with a "grate" surface work best; items with smooth bars in a "ladder rung" style may need strips of fleece woven in between. (Options include: logs/branches, hammocks, fleece rope, wooden ladders/bridges, aquarium/vivarium decor, fake plants/vines, rock ledges, hanging fabric bags/accessories, and similar items sold for reptiles, sugar gliders, etc.)
Dust bath container: Sturdy and washable container large enough for a tenrec to comfortably turn around in. If placed in the cage, it should be shallow enough to enter, or have an entry hole. (Options include: small bucket, tupperware container, shallow ceramic/glass bowl, or retail dust bath container of the appropriate size.)
Dust/sand: Chinchilla dust or reptile sand for bathing. Must be commercially produced/sold (i.e. not sand from outdoors or not meant for pets). Plain white/uncolored is ideal; others may produce a temporary color tinge.
Thermometer: A digital thermometer to be kept in or directly next to the cage. (Note: although tenrecs usually do fine at "room temperature", knowing the exact temperature is still important, and a room's wall thermostat is not adequate.)
Cage: Enclosure must be flat-bottomed with enough floor space for the necessary items (approx. 3 sq ft) and enough height to utilize for climbing (12" minimum); overall minimum space of 2-3 cubic feet. For wire cages, spacing should be max. 1/2" or covered with smaller mesh/plastic grating. (Options include: homemade vivariums, modified bins, Critter Nation, or Quality Cages.) (Note: During torpor, a smaller enclosure can be used in accordance with the reduced activity level.)
Wheel: Minimum 9" diameter and 3.5" running width. Should be open-faced (no crossbars). Can be wire grate (not just wire bars) and/or solid surface (i.e. bucket or comfort wheel). (Note: one of each type is ideal, because tenrecs will use wire as a climbing "toy" and solid for running - but only one or the other is mandatory.)
Hideaway: Minimum of one (on bottom level); preferably multiple (different kinds and placed at different heights). Large enough to accommodate an adult tenrec (approx. the size of a medium fist) with an entrance 2.5-3" in diameter. (Options include: wood logs, reptile rock caves, 3" PVC pipe, stay-open bags, ceramic pots, wood/plastic/fabric huts.)
Food: A high quality dry kibble, moderately high protein (30-33%) with small pieces. It is recommended to continue using what the breeder does. 1lb will typically last several months. (Note: insectivore food, such as Mazuri, has lower quality ingredients but has been used extensively by zoos with success.)
Insects: Live feeder insects, to be provided at least several times a week; daily is preferred. There should be a staple of at least two different kinds, with others included on rotation, and an overall variety of at least 5. (Note: any kind and size can be used, as long as they are bred/sold for feeder purposes - not from a bait store or wild-caught.)
Bowls: For kibble, insects, and water; can also have one for other treats. 1-2 oz capacity works best. Tenrecs do not use water bottles. (Note: bowls more than 2" diameter are more likely to get pooped in, and more than 2" height may be difficult to access or get knocked over.)
Bedding: Liners (sewn cotton/flannel, or fleece cut to size) or appropriate particulate bedding. (Options include: Kaytee or Carefresh, pine/aspen shavings, and similar.) (Note: pine/paper pellets are not suitable for the whole cage. NEVER cedar.)
Climbing items: Various accessories at various levels in the cage; both hanging and self-standing items. Close enough to each other to be easily reached, and with texture for easy gripping (avoid smooth surfaces that are too large for the toes to curl around). Fabric, natural/porous wood, and wire/metal/plastic with a "grate" surface work best; items with smooth bars in a "ladder rung" style may need strips of fleece woven in between. (Options include: logs/branches, hammocks, fleece rope, wooden ladders/bridges, aquarium/vivarium decor, fake plants/vines, rock ledges, hanging fabric bags/accessories, and similar items sold for reptiles, sugar gliders, etc.)
Dust bath container: Sturdy and washable container large enough for a tenrec to comfortably turn around in. If placed in the cage, it should be shallow enough to enter, or have an entry hole. (Options include: small bucket, tupperware container, shallow ceramic/glass bowl, or retail dust bath container of the appropriate size.)
Dust/sand: Chinchilla dust or reptile sand for bathing. Must be commercially produced/sold (i.e. not sand from outdoors or not meant for pets). Plain white/uncolored is ideal; others may produce a temporary color tinge.
Thermometer: A digital thermometer to be kept in or directly next to the cage. (Note: although tenrecs usually do fine at "room temperature", knowing the exact temperature is still important, and a room's wall thermostat is not adequate.)
Suggested Accessories
These items are not absolutely necessary. In addition to the mandatory supplies above, they are recommended for your tenrec's enrichment and happiness, or just for your own convenience.
Litter box: Should barge enough for a tenrec to fully enter and turn around in, and easily cleaned (plastic, ceramic, etc; not wood). (Options include: 6" corner litter pan, shallow container, or small bucket with a hole cut in the side.)
Litter: Pine/paper pellets or other safe particulate options.
Tweezers: For handling/feeding insects; available in normal household sizes, or 10-12" length sold for reptiles.
Carrying bag/carrier: For hands-off transportation. At home, just a hoodie pocket or shoulder perch works nicely. More enclosed or secure options are beneficial in some situations, especially for extended travel out of the house. (Note: keep in mind spacing of latching doors, ventilation slits, etc, when using an option that will not be in the hands/lap. More than 1/2" can potentially result in escape.)
Heat source: A CHE (ceramic heat emitter, with thermostat) or space heater. This is only needed if ambient temperature is considerably below minimums (68-70, or 58-60 during torpor). (Note: a small animal heating pad or SnuggleSafe disc can also be used short-term to help bring a stubborn tenrec out of torpor.)
Additional toys/accessories/cage filler: Any safe items not already mentioned, such as small stuffed animals, pillows/blankets, cuddle buddies, tunnels, shag rug, etc. Anything else that can be pushed around, climbed on, or provides clutter. (Note: generally speaking, if it's safe for a hedgehog, it's safe for a tenrec; the only difference is size, when considering potential to get stuck or choke.)
Litter box: Should barge enough for a tenrec to fully enter and turn around in, and easily cleaned (plastic, ceramic, etc; not wood). (Options include: 6" corner litter pan, shallow container, or small bucket with a hole cut in the side.)
Litter: Pine/paper pellets or other safe particulate options.
Tweezers: For handling/feeding insects; available in normal household sizes, or 10-12" length sold for reptiles.
Carrying bag/carrier: For hands-off transportation. At home, just a hoodie pocket or shoulder perch works nicely. More enclosed or secure options are beneficial in some situations, especially for extended travel out of the house. (Note: keep in mind spacing of latching doors, ventilation slits, etc, when using an option that will not be in the hands/lap. More than 1/2" can potentially result in escape.)
Heat source: A CHE (ceramic heat emitter, with thermostat) or space heater. This is only needed if ambient temperature is considerably below minimums (68-70, or 58-60 during torpor). (Note: a small animal heating pad or SnuggleSafe disc can also be used short-term to help bring a stubborn tenrec out of torpor.)
Additional toys/accessories/cage filler: Any safe items not already mentioned, such as small stuffed animals, pillows/blankets, cuddle buddies, tunnels, shag rug, etc. Anything else that can be pushed around, climbed on, or provides clutter. (Note: generally speaking, if it's safe for a hedgehog, it's safe for a tenrec; the only difference is size, when considering potential to get stuck or choke.)
