Myths and Misconceptions
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Hedgehogs are a fairly recent addition to the world of personal pets and small companion animals. They only arrived in the US several decades ago, and the prevalent approaches to husbandry have changed dramatically in only the last five years or so. As the available information evolves, some resources - especially VVH's own website and associated Facebook group (Hedgehogs Anonymous) - continue to be tweaked and adjusted. Unfortunately, many other resources are not regularly updated, or they come from well-intended but very limited perspectives. As a result, many myths and misconceptions are perpetuated.
The list below has been compiled to address and correct some of the most stubborn pieces of misinformation, in the hopes of reducing their circulation in the future. Some of them ("misconceptions") are only a little off-kilter; they may have stemmed from some element of truth, but have been twisted or exaggerated. Others ("myths") are blatantly false. The detailed included for elaboration are objective and factual, without personal bias.
This educational page is a work in progress, so be sure to check back occasionally!
(Note: as more content is added, the list will be rearranged and categorized for optimal navigation.)
The list below has been compiled to address and correct some of the most stubborn pieces of misinformation, in the hopes of reducing their circulation in the future. Some of them ("misconceptions") are only a little off-kilter; they may have stemmed from some element of truth, but have been twisted or exaggerated. Others ("myths") are blatantly false. The detailed included for elaboration are objective and factual, without personal bias.
This educational page is a work in progress, so be sure to check back occasionally!
(Note: as more content is added, the list will be rearranged and categorized for optimal navigation.)
Fish causes smelly poop. (Misconception)
Fish and seafood CAN make poop more smelly. This is due to the natural fish oils, and is true of any pets that consume it (as well as humans). It isn't an absolute, and somewhat depends on the type, amount, and how it may have been processed, as well as the individual hedgehog's digestive system. In some cases it won't affect the smell at all, or the smell will be reduced once they're used to it. Foods that include fish as the 2nd or 3rd ingredient can have less impact. When fish is listed primarily as a "meal" (i.e. "salmon meal") it means that ingredient was in a dehydrated form when added to the recipe, which indicates minimal fish oil, and less smell. Even when fish in the diet does result in ongoing smellier poop, it's an inconvenience, not a health concern. In fact the oils that are responsible for possible stink are also associated with health benefits, especially for the skin and fur, and fish oil on its own can even be used as a dietary additive to reduce arthritic inflammation in elderly hedgehogs.
A worn item of clothing in the cage helps with bonding. (Misconception)
This is often at the top of the list of recommendations, especially during the initial transition period. The concept is that a well-worn piece of clothing will be imbued with a person's scent, making them more familiar. That aspect isn't exactly untrue, but for bonding purposes the effect is minimal at best, and usually nonexistent. In other words: placebo effect. You can include this along with recommended interactive methods, but on its own it isn't really going to do anything to benefit socialization or bonding, except that it can help some new owners feel more confident. Many clothes that would be most convenient (like t-shirts) also tend to have rough hems/threads on the inside, which can be hazardous.
Superworms are dangerous; they should only be fed with the heads cut off. (Myth)
Superworms are large, very wiggly, and can be intimidating, but they are absolutely not dangerous. They are capable of "biting" but their mandibles can only barely pinch the outer layer of skin, which feels like a tickle or itch (similar to being poked with a piece of hay). At worst it can be surprising, and hedgehogs that aren't used to it may be put off at first, or they may prefer a smaller size. Any stories about superworms chewing through the stomach or otherwise doing damage are not physically possible. Even at the surface (exterior skin), a hedgehog would have to be immobilized for an extended period for a superworm to break the skin. When eaten, they are aggressively chewed to a pulp. If by some miracle they were to be swallowed whole, superworms have no lungs that can lend them spare oxygen - even in water they will drown very quickly, and in stomach acid, as little as a few seconds. When you get past the imaginative horror stories, superworms are a superior choice for feeder insects (easier to digest, lower maintenance, more enticing because they're more wiggly). Cutting off the head as a precaution is completely unnecessary and drastically decreases the enticement and enrichment.
Oatmeal baths fix dry skin. Bath products are required to include oatmeal. (Misconception)
Oatmeal, either in a commercial product or in an old-fashioned bath, can be soothing to the skin but has virtually no ability to combat dry skin. The difference in bath products with or without oatmeal is fairly nonexistent as far as hedgehogs are concerned. An oatmeal addictive for baths can be used during quilling or to soothe various skin ailments, but it isn't a treatment. It has no innate moisturizing properties. This assumption came about because in the past, the few human-oriented products that were gentle enough for hedgehogs just happened to include oatmeal.
Hedgehogs should not be given a wheel until 12 weeks old. (Myth)
With a few exceptions (injury/illness, extreme runts), hedgehogs are ready for a wheel when weaned. This reflects the wild tendency to separate from the mother and venture out foraging as soon as they aren't nursing. Pet hedgehogs can explore a wheel in the last week or so before weaning, but it isn't required that early. It IS required when they're weaned, and adult-sized wheel must be available as soon as they're in a new home. Regional limitations about wheel use before 12 weeks (or some other arbitrary number) are based on an unfounded belief that if they use it "too early", when still growing, they can damage this that or the other thing. It lacks any tangible evidence and exists only in the realm of hearsay, and doesn't stand up logically to the behavior of hedgehogs' wild counterparts. Decades of weaning-age wheel introduction in the US, as well as survey evaluations on the subject, have not shown any detrimental pattern. On the other hand, withholding a wheel for multiple weeks or months can cause a multitude of problems, including weight/appetite issues (too much without proper exercise; even too little), neurotic/frantic tendencies (circling, pacing, climbing, self-mutilation), and general decreased wellness. A hedgehog isn't going to suffer from a short and unavoidable period without a wheel (such as when a new one is purchased, during a multi-night roadtrip, or as dictated by medical necessity), but the deliberate choice to not provide a wheel until a certain age is neglectful and inexcusable.
Hedgehogs should be free-fed. (Misconception)
Some hedgehogs will self-regulate. Most won't. Free-feeding has been observed to be essentially the most common cause of weight issues in hedgehogs, and it's also the easiest to avoid. A set amount of food is by far the superior option (1-2 tablespoons is a standard guideline for a low-fat kibble). There are always exceptions, such as with individuals who need a focus on weight gain, but for adult maintenance there is no benefit to providing a full bowl that is refilled when it runs low. In addition to weight considerations, that method results in stale food and decreases the owner's ability to monitor food intake (sudden changes in which are an early indication of illness). Once the fat content and specific amount are determined based on the hedgehog's own exact needs, nearly all will thrive when being fed a measured amount each day, whereas it is much less common for free-feeding to show the same long-term result.
Water bottles are dangerous. Only bowls should be used. (Myth)
Bottles have historically been given a bad reputation, based mostly on exaggeration. As far as pros and cons, they break about even with bowls - so it comes down to an informed decision by the owner, based on individual preferences and needs. The most common "risks" are:
» Tongue injuries. This is only caused by spring-loaded bottles, which are no longer common, and easy to identify and avoid.
» "Unnatural" position. Sometimes bottles will be at a less than ideal height when mounted on a default cage clip, but when mounted correctly and fairly level (by DIY means, if necessary), there is no strain or discomfort to the hedgehog.
» Bacterial growth. This happens when the water is left unchanged for a long period, but obviously it shouldn't be. Bottles require regular cleaning, as with all other equipment.
Hedgehogs carry Salmonella. (Misconception)
Hedgehogs CAN carry salmonella, the same as any other animals, but they're hardly "plague-ridden". Common sense, basic hygiene (yours and theirs), and an objective perspective on the subject are all you need. (Lengthy details can be found here.)
Hedgehogs are dangerous for pregnant women. (Myth)
Taxoplasmosis is the "threat" to pregnant women that can be found in the feces of some cats, and theoretically other species, but the likelihood of taxoplasmosis in hedgehog poop is virtually nonexistent. The parasite enters the digestive system through infested raw meat (which is why strictly indoor cats aren't a concern either). Pet hedgehogs don't eat wild carrion, which rules them out entirely. Other than that, good hand washing habits are applicable for everyone.
Cat food causes obesity. (Misconception)
This one tends to come from very outdated sources, and often from vets. The tendency to lump all cat kibble together results from the common issue of uninformed owners, or overly generalized information. When the specific requirements for cat kibble aren't considered, many kinds of cat food - especially the cheaper grocery store varieties - can in fact cause health issues due to an excess of fat (leading to obesity) as well as protein (leading to various liver/kidney issues). The effect of too much fat is most visible in a shorter amount of time, and usually the first thing referenced when cat kibble in general is discussed with a negative slant. In the end it comes down to the details of the ingredients and fat/protein, not simply whether a feline is depicted on the packaging.
Peas are toxic/bad and shouldn't be anywhere on a list of ingredients. (Myth)
The vilification of peas is so absurd that it's kind of a running joke, having been fabricated by a certain breeder/source. The concept is based on a completely skewed understanding of phosphorus and calcium. For a balanced diet, those two components are best kept at a general ratio (more or less applicable to all animals). In layman's terms, too much or little of one is detrimental to how the body processes the other. Peas are high in phosphorus - but not that high. It would take excess daily addition of peas to throw off the balance of a staple kibble diet. As for their inclusion in kibble itself: even if peas are high on the list of ingredients, they don't indicate a phosphorus imbalance. All kibble listed as meeting AAFCO dietary requirements (meaning any that are indicated as complete and balanced, to be used as an entire diet) are designed to have the correct ratio of calcium and phosphorus. Peas are considered a good quality ingredient and are one of the preferred non-grain starches used in kibble.
Hedgehogs should only have a few mealworms at a time. (Misconception)
Large live mealworms are only about 1/3 to 1/2 of a calorie, and on average hedgehogs consume about 75 calories per day. That means that for hedgehogs that are at a good weight and size, mealworm consumption is more flexible. They, like all extra treats, should be minimized when an overweight hedgehog needs a calorie deficit. They also can sometimes cause constipation (yes, even the live ones) or cause a hedgehog to snub their staple kibble, both of which are more tangible indicators of "too many mealworms".
Hand feeding will help with bonding. (Myth)
Hedgehogs aren't wired in a way where they make generalized positive associations by way of food, but this suggestion often carries over from dogs, and can be appealing as a hands-off method. Ultimately treats are just treats - they're great for dietary variety and enrichment, but not for bonding. Occasional hand feeding isn't usually a problem, but when it's motivated by assumed bonding benefit, often it becomes very strict and consistent (such as doing it every single time the hedgehog is taken out). That level of consistency is capable of creating a demanding biting habit focused on the hands, which can literally turn an attempted (and ineffectual) bonding technique into a challenging unwanted behavior.
Hedgehogs are sensitive to noise and should be kept in a quiet place. (Misconception)
Hedgehogs have very good hearing but it isn't a delicate thing. They tend to react to loud or sudden noises on reflex, but sheltering them from that kind of stimuli only keeps them reactive. Repeat exposure desensitizes them, and it's actually best to have a source of regular background noise (such as a radio near the cage), and keep them in an area of the house that gets more noise and traffic. Protective considerations are only really applicable if they would be a good idea for a human (or a dog, for a pet perspective) - such as a shooting range or more intense music events.
Huffing is a sign of stress or fear, and should be avoided. (Misconception)
Huffing is a primary intimidation technique. It works with raised quills to make the hedgehog appear large, loud, and scary. Trying to avoid anything that triggers this behavior, or backing off when it occurs, tells the hedgehog that their intimidation is effective, and thereby reinforces the behavior.
Only male hedgehogs masturbate. (Misconception)
Females will also groom or stimulate their genitals, but their biology means there's no visible "protrusion" (erection). Individual discretion varies in both sexes.
Some hedgehogs have a belly button. (Misconception)
What resembles an "outie" belly button is the penile sheath, indicating that the hedgehog is male.
Hedgehogs should be left alone for a while when first brought to a new home. (Misconception)
Hedgehogs do not benefit from being left alone for an arbitrary amount of time (24 hours, 3 days, etc). This only postpones the bonding and socialization process in a new home. It can reinforce defensive behaviors, and the exaggerated "grumpy" behavior of the transition can be delayed by a few days, avoiding interaction when they arrive can waste a chance to become acquainted before the defensive effect of that adjustment kicks in fully.
Female hedgehogs have a heat (estrus) cycle like dogs. (Myth)
Females are induced ovulators. Their bodies are made receptive by direct contact and courtship from a male, which triggers initial hormones, and then the act of penetration (mating). They can become pregnant at any time.
Females have a "period". (Myth)
The lack of a consistent cycle means that a "period" does not exist. Blood in the vaginal area is caused by several different health ailments and requires immediate vet care.
Hedgehogs can shoot their quills. (Myth)
This originated with porcupines, which has long, "barbed" quills that can detach and become embedded in the skin of a predator. However, there is literally no animal that can use quills/spines as a projectile.
Fish and seafood CAN make poop more smelly. This is due to the natural fish oils, and is true of any pets that consume it (as well as humans). It isn't an absolute, and somewhat depends on the type, amount, and how it may have been processed, as well as the individual hedgehog's digestive system. In some cases it won't affect the smell at all, or the smell will be reduced once they're used to it. Foods that include fish as the 2nd or 3rd ingredient can have less impact. When fish is listed primarily as a "meal" (i.e. "salmon meal") it means that ingredient was in a dehydrated form when added to the recipe, which indicates minimal fish oil, and less smell. Even when fish in the diet does result in ongoing smellier poop, it's an inconvenience, not a health concern. In fact the oils that are responsible for possible stink are also associated with health benefits, especially for the skin and fur, and fish oil on its own can even be used as a dietary additive to reduce arthritic inflammation in elderly hedgehogs.
A worn item of clothing in the cage helps with bonding. (Misconception)
This is often at the top of the list of recommendations, especially during the initial transition period. The concept is that a well-worn piece of clothing will be imbued with a person's scent, making them more familiar. That aspect isn't exactly untrue, but for bonding purposes the effect is minimal at best, and usually nonexistent. In other words: placebo effect. You can include this along with recommended interactive methods, but on its own it isn't really going to do anything to benefit socialization or bonding, except that it can help some new owners feel more confident. Many clothes that would be most convenient (like t-shirts) also tend to have rough hems/threads on the inside, which can be hazardous.
Superworms are dangerous; they should only be fed with the heads cut off. (Myth)
Superworms are large, very wiggly, and can be intimidating, but they are absolutely not dangerous. They are capable of "biting" but their mandibles can only barely pinch the outer layer of skin, which feels like a tickle or itch (similar to being poked with a piece of hay). At worst it can be surprising, and hedgehogs that aren't used to it may be put off at first, or they may prefer a smaller size. Any stories about superworms chewing through the stomach or otherwise doing damage are not physically possible. Even at the surface (exterior skin), a hedgehog would have to be immobilized for an extended period for a superworm to break the skin. When eaten, they are aggressively chewed to a pulp. If by some miracle they were to be swallowed whole, superworms have no lungs that can lend them spare oxygen - even in water they will drown very quickly, and in stomach acid, as little as a few seconds. When you get past the imaginative horror stories, superworms are a superior choice for feeder insects (easier to digest, lower maintenance, more enticing because they're more wiggly). Cutting off the head as a precaution is completely unnecessary and drastically decreases the enticement and enrichment.
Oatmeal baths fix dry skin. Bath products are required to include oatmeal. (Misconception)
Oatmeal, either in a commercial product or in an old-fashioned bath, can be soothing to the skin but has virtually no ability to combat dry skin. The difference in bath products with or without oatmeal is fairly nonexistent as far as hedgehogs are concerned. An oatmeal addictive for baths can be used during quilling or to soothe various skin ailments, but it isn't a treatment. It has no innate moisturizing properties. This assumption came about because in the past, the few human-oriented products that were gentle enough for hedgehogs just happened to include oatmeal.
Hedgehogs should not be given a wheel until 12 weeks old. (Myth)
With a few exceptions (injury/illness, extreme runts), hedgehogs are ready for a wheel when weaned. This reflects the wild tendency to separate from the mother and venture out foraging as soon as they aren't nursing. Pet hedgehogs can explore a wheel in the last week or so before weaning, but it isn't required that early. It IS required when they're weaned, and adult-sized wheel must be available as soon as they're in a new home. Regional limitations about wheel use before 12 weeks (or some other arbitrary number) are based on an unfounded belief that if they use it "too early", when still growing, they can damage this that or the other thing. It lacks any tangible evidence and exists only in the realm of hearsay, and doesn't stand up logically to the behavior of hedgehogs' wild counterparts. Decades of weaning-age wheel introduction in the US, as well as survey evaluations on the subject, have not shown any detrimental pattern. On the other hand, withholding a wheel for multiple weeks or months can cause a multitude of problems, including weight/appetite issues (too much without proper exercise; even too little), neurotic/frantic tendencies (circling, pacing, climbing, self-mutilation), and general decreased wellness. A hedgehog isn't going to suffer from a short and unavoidable period without a wheel (such as when a new one is purchased, during a multi-night roadtrip, or as dictated by medical necessity), but the deliberate choice to not provide a wheel until a certain age is neglectful and inexcusable.
Hedgehogs should be free-fed. (Misconception)
Some hedgehogs will self-regulate. Most won't. Free-feeding has been observed to be essentially the most common cause of weight issues in hedgehogs, and it's also the easiest to avoid. A set amount of food is by far the superior option (1-2 tablespoons is a standard guideline for a low-fat kibble). There are always exceptions, such as with individuals who need a focus on weight gain, but for adult maintenance there is no benefit to providing a full bowl that is refilled when it runs low. In addition to weight considerations, that method results in stale food and decreases the owner's ability to monitor food intake (sudden changes in which are an early indication of illness). Once the fat content and specific amount are determined based on the hedgehog's own exact needs, nearly all will thrive when being fed a measured amount each day, whereas it is much less common for free-feeding to show the same long-term result.
Water bottles are dangerous. Only bowls should be used. (Myth)
Bottles have historically been given a bad reputation, based mostly on exaggeration. As far as pros and cons, they break about even with bowls - so it comes down to an informed decision by the owner, based on individual preferences and needs. The most common "risks" are:
» Tongue injuries. This is only caused by spring-loaded bottles, which are no longer common, and easy to identify and avoid.
» "Unnatural" position. Sometimes bottles will be at a less than ideal height when mounted on a default cage clip, but when mounted correctly and fairly level (by DIY means, if necessary), there is no strain or discomfort to the hedgehog.
» Bacterial growth. This happens when the water is left unchanged for a long period, but obviously it shouldn't be. Bottles require regular cleaning, as with all other equipment.
Hedgehogs carry Salmonella. (Misconception)
Hedgehogs CAN carry salmonella, the same as any other animals, but they're hardly "plague-ridden". Common sense, basic hygiene (yours and theirs), and an objective perspective on the subject are all you need. (Lengthy details can be found here.)
Hedgehogs are dangerous for pregnant women. (Myth)
Taxoplasmosis is the "threat" to pregnant women that can be found in the feces of some cats, and theoretically other species, but the likelihood of taxoplasmosis in hedgehog poop is virtually nonexistent. The parasite enters the digestive system through infested raw meat (which is why strictly indoor cats aren't a concern either). Pet hedgehogs don't eat wild carrion, which rules them out entirely. Other than that, good hand washing habits are applicable for everyone.
Cat food causes obesity. (Misconception)
This one tends to come from very outdated sources, and often from vets. The tendency to lump all cat kibble together results from the common issue of uninformed owners, or overly generalized information. When the specific requirements for cat kibble aren't considered, many kinds of cat food - especially the cheaper grocery store varieties - can in fact cause health issues due to an excess of fat (leading to obesity) as well as protein (leading to various liver/kidney issues). The effect of too much fat is most visible in a shorter amount of time, and usually the first thing referenced when cat kibble in general is discussed with a negative slant. In the end it comes down to the details of the ingredients and fat/protein, not simply whether a feline is depicted on the packaging.
Peas are toxic/bad and shouldn't be anywhere on a list of ingredients. (Myth)
The vilification of peas is so absurd that it's kind of a running joke, having been fabricated by a certain breeder/source. The concept is based on a completely skewed understanding of phosphorus and calcium. For a balanced diet, those two components are best kept at a general ratio (more or less applicable to all animals). In layman's terms, too much or little of one is detrimental to how the body processes the other. Peas are high in phosphorus - but not that high. It would take excess daily addition of peas to throw off the balance of a staple kibble diet. As for their inclusion in kibble itself: even if peas are high on the list of ingredients, they don't indicate a phosphorus imbalance. All kibble listed as meeting AAFCO dietary requirements (meaning any that are indicated as complete and balanced, to be used as an entire diet) are designed to have the correct ratio of calcium and phosphorus. Peas are considered a good quality ingredient and are one of the preferred non-grain starches used in kibble.
Hedgehogs should only have a few mealworms at a time. (Misconception)
Large live mealworms are only about 1/3 to 1/2 of a calorie, and on average hedgehogs consume about 75 calories per day. That means that for hedgehogs that are at a good weight and size, mealworm consumption is more flexible. They, like all extra treats, should be minimized when an overweight hedgehog needs a calorie deficit. They also can sometimes cause constipation (yes, even the live ones) or cause a hedgehog to snub their staple kibble, both of which are more tangible indicators of "too many mealworms".
Hand feeding will help with bonding. (Myth)
Hedgehogs aren't wired in a way where they make generalized positive associations by way of food, but this suggestion often carries over from dogs, and can be appealing as a hands-off method. Ultimately treats are just treats - they're great for dietary variety and enrichment, but not for bonding. Occasional hand feeding isn't usually a problem, but when it's motivated by assumed bonding benefit, often it becomes very strict and consistent (such as doing it every single time the hedgehog is taken out). That level of consistency is capable of creating a demanding biting habit focused on the hands, which can literally turn an attempted (and ineffectual) bonding technique into a challenging unwanted behavior.
Hedgehogs are sensitive to noise and should be kept in a quiet place. (Misconception)
Hedgehogs have very good hearing but it isn't a delicate thing. They tend to react to loud or sudden noises on reflex, but sheltering them from that kind of stimuli only keeps them reactive. Repeat exposure desensitizes them, and it's actually best to have a source of regular background noise (such as a radio near the cage), and keep them in an area of the house that gets more noise and traffic. Protective considerations are only really applicable if they would be a good idea for a human (or a dog, for a pet perspective) - such as a shooting range or more intense music events.
Huffing is a sign of stress or fear, and should be avoided. (Misconception)
Huffing is a primary intimidation technique. It works with raised quills to make the hedgehog appear large, loud, and scary. Trying to avoid anything that triggers this behavior, or backing off when it occurs, tells the hedgehog that their intimidation is effective, and thereby reinforces the behavior.
Only male hedgehogs masturbate. (Misconception)
Females will also groom or stimulate their genitals, but their biology means there's no visible "protrusion" (erection). Individual discretion varies in both sexes.
Some hedgehogs have a belly button. (Misconception)
What resembles an "outie" belly button is the penile sheath, indicating that the hedgehog is male.
Hedgehogs should be left alone for a while when first brought to a new home. (Misconception)
Hedgehogs do not benefit from being left alone for an arbitrary amount of time (24 hours, 3 days, etc). This only postpones the bonding and socialization process in a new home. It can reinforce defensive behaviors, and the exaggerated "grumpy" behavior of the transition can be delayed by a few days, avoiding interaction when they arrive can waste a chance to become acquainted before the defensive effect of that adjustment kicks in fully.
Female hedgehogs have a heat (estrus) cycle like dogs. (Myth)
Females are induced ovulators. Their bodies are made receptive by direct contact and courtship from a male, which triggers initial hormones, and then the act of penetration (mating). They can become pregnant at any time.
Females have a "period". (Myth)
The lack of a consistent cycle means that a "period" does not exist. Blood in the vaginal area is caused by several different health ailments and requires immediate vet care.
Hedgehogs can shoot their quills. (Myth)
This originated with porcupines, which has long, "barbed" quills that can detach and become embedded in the skin of a predator. However, there is literally no animal that can use quills/spines as a projectile.
More to come!
This is a partial list of topics that will be given elaboration in the near future:
» Raw meat, red meat, pork, beef, mushrooms, legumes, dairy, etc.
» Runabout balls.
» Aloe and tea tree oil products.
» Commercial hedgehog/insectivore diets.
» Ingredients definitions ("meal", "by-products").
» Nocturnal considerations.
» Hedgehogs as class pets/pets for children.
» WHS (Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome).
» Quilling.
» Bathing considerations.
» Cage size ("bigger is better").
» Tenrecs vs. hedgehogs.
» Hibernation.
» USDA licensed breeders.
» Raw meat, red meat, pork, beef, mushrooms, legumes, dairy, etc.
» Runabout balls.
» Aloe and tea tree oil products.
» Commercial hedgehog/insectivore diets.
» Ingredients definitions ("meal", "by-products").
» Nocturnal considerations.
» Hedgehogs as class pets/pets for children.
» WHS (Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome).
» Quilling.
» Bathing considerations.
» Cage size ("bigger is better").
» Tenrecs vs. hedgehogs.
» Hibernation.
» USDA licensed breeders.
