Hedgehogs vs. Tenrecs

At a glance, hedgehogs and tenrecs (lesser hedgehog tenrecs) have superficial similarities, both in appearance as well as general care requirements. However, the difference is in the details. Both of these species make excellent pets for their own reasons, but they may not both be a good fit for any one individual owner or family. It is important to have a clear and complete understanding of what makes these species unique. This is a general overview of points of comparison - more in-depth information for each species can be found elsewhere on our website.

Longevity

Hedgehogs live an average of about 3-5 years. 6-7 years is uncommon, and past 7 years is almost unheard of. Longevity is affected by the quality of the bloodlines and overall genetic health, therefore hedgehogs from reputable breeders tend to live longer compared to those from other sources.

Tenrecs have an extremely long lifespan for an animal of their size, and can easily live into their teens. On average, pet tenrecs live around 12-15 years. It is not uncommon for them to reach their later teens, and the oldest recorded tenrec in captivity lived to be more than 20 years old.

Appearance

- body strucure
- colors
- quills
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Size

A healthy adult weight for a hedgehog can vary from approx. 250g to over 700g, with most individuals falling closer to the middle of that range.

Tenrecs are quite small and can easily be held in one hand, which makes them perfect for carrying in a hoodie pocket or on the shoulder. Adults are similar in size to a standard (3"x5") index card, and the typical weight range is approx. 130-180g. It is uncommon for a tenrec's default weight to much exceed 200g, with the exception of pregnant/nursing females. Weight fluctuates during the year, due to tenrecs losing weight during winter torpor and gaining it back in the spring.

Gender

Hedgehogs are not sexually dimorphic - other than the genitals, there are no differences in size or appearance based on the sex. Likewise, the sex of a hedgehog has no connection to its personality or temperament. Sex is easily determined by the presence of a vaginal opening (located directly above the anus of a female) or penile sheath (located higher on the abdomen; it resembles an "outie" belly button). The testes of a male are internal; they are fairly inconspicuous but sometimes visible as a pronounced bulge when the hedgehog is positioned a certain way. Both males and females can engage in masturbatory behaviors, usually with discretion.

Tenrecs have a cloaca, and therefore no external genitalia. This causes difficulty in determining the sex of young tenrecs that have not yet reached maturity, although a DNA test can be used for verification. In adulthood, they display a moderate degree of sexual dimorphism which is limited to facial structure and characteristics. A mature male has a somewhat broader face and stouter muzzle, whereas a mature female has features that are slightly narrower and more angular. Males also have a "puffy" or "swollen" appearance around the eyes, due to more pronounced glands in that area, whereas the glands of females are much smaller and not visible in that way.

Temperament

Hedgehogs are equipped with instinctive defensive behaviors, in the form of vocalizations (huffing, hissing, etc.) and raised quills. Even very sweet hedgehogs will demonstrate these behaviors on occasion. At some point, owning a hedgehog means that a person will get poked or huffed at, and during home transitions those behaviors are exaggerated. In a pet capacity, the defensive behaviors can be minimized through a combination of selective breeding, extensive socialization (beginning at a very young age), and continued confident handling. The most effective approach requires a clear understanding of how they are "wired", what their behaviors mean, and reasonable expectations overall. When some of the necessary factors are lacking (i.e. questionable background or source; incorrect or insubstantial handling), a hedgehog's defensiveness can be much more pronounced and lasting, to the extent that some hedgehogs may have a "grumpy" and standoffish demeanor by default. Hedgehogs have the potential to be excellent companion pets, but they are solitary animals, and therefore will always be fairly indifferent rather than actively seeking attention or showing affection.

Diet

Hedgehogs are opportunistic omnivores (not insectivores) and do best when fed a staple diet of dry cat kibble. Specific requirements must be adhered to (especially in regards to the fat and protein content and quality of the ingredients), and a mixture of several kinds is ideal. Any food transition should be done gradually, to avoid both digestive upset and hunger strikes. In addition to the kibble, hedgehogs can have a variety of other foods, which are appropriate as occasional treats but can also be used as daily supplements (with consideration to fat/protein/etc., and the individual hedgehog's needs). Many hedgehogs have little interest in foods besides their kibble, or will only like very specific treats. Although some hedgehogs will self-regulate, more often a measured daily amount is more successful, as free-feeding can often result in weight problems. A raw/homemade (completely kibble-free) diet is highly discouraged and likely to cause deficiencies and health problems in the long-term.

Tenrecs are (almost) exclusive insectivores. They do best with a combination of dry cat kibble (or commercial insectivore diet) and a variety of live insects. Insects should be treated as a major component of the diet, rather than an occasional treat, with the inclusion of at least 5 different types (more is better). Cooked meat and eggs, baby food, Gerber meat sticks, pinkies, and small amounts of fruit can be included. Because they are more motivated by live insects than kibble, dry food transition can be difficult, and it is best to continue whatever kibble they were eating in their previous home. Tenrecs can generally be free-fed kibble without any problems. A varied raw (kibble-free) diet can be successful, but to ensure balance the regular inclusion of kibble is preferred. To that end, for individuals who demonstrate a clear favoritism toward live insects, it is sometimes necessary to provide them every other day so that kibble is no snubbed completely.

Heat / Temperature

Hedgehogs require a cage temperature between 70 and 80 F. Mid-70s is ideal. Individual preferences can be on the higher or lower end, and some fluctuation within the appropriate range is acceptable. "Room temperature" is usually inadequate, and built-in wall thermostats can be misleading. A digital thermometer should be used within the actual cage to verify, and it is recommended to have a heat source, even if the specifics of the household, location, or season do not necessitate its use at all times. A CHE (ceramic heat emitter) with automatic thermostat or manual dimmer is a popular choice, and a space heater or dedicated heated room can be used as well. During handling and other activity outside of the cage, the temperature does not need to be strictly adhered to, because a drop of a few degrees for a short period is not going to cause any detrimental effects. Prolonged exposure to temperatures significantly below the recommended range will most often result in hibernation attempts, which are fatal if not reversed. In some cases, when the cage temperature is slightly too low, or simply left regulated, instead of an ouright hibernation attempt the hedgehog may experience detrimental effects related to the temperament, immune system, and activity level.

Tenrecs aren't very temperature sensitive, and for the most part do well at "room temperature".

- low default body temp
- don't usually need a dedicated heat source
- sometimes require short-term supplementary heat when coming out of torpor
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Hibernation / Torpor

Hedgehogs are not biologically equipped to survive hibernation. Contrary to common assumption, they did not lose the ability during the process of domestication, nor does it relate to a hedgehog's fat stores - it was simply never there to begin with. Although European hedgehogs, a well-known wild species, are a classic example of winter hibernation, pet hedgehogs are descended from two African species. Their ancestors are found in a different biological genus, which evolved in a much warmer and more arid environment, and therefore even under wild conditions they do not have the same capacity for hibernation. When a pet hedgehog becomes too cold, and a hibernation attempt is triggered, their body slowly shuts down in a way that is similar to a human experiencing hypothermia. If it is corrected soon enough, countered with gradual warmth from a direct external source (body heat via skin contact, or a supervised heating pad on low), the hedgehog can fully recover - sometimes with short-term temperature sensitivity or immune deficiency, but overall with no long-term effects. However, if a hedgehog is left in that state for too long, the result is fatal. Whereas true hibernation by other species allows the reduction of vital functions only to a certain point, which can be sustained for an extended period, a pet hedgehog will continue to decline until deceased.

- torpor (mild form of hibernation
- winter/cold season, 4-6 months
- reduced temperature, activity, metabolism, food/water intake
- handling is fine; actually beneficial
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Health

Hedgehogs aren't delicate, per se, and with the correct care (particularly diet and temperature) they

Tenrecs are not prone to many ailments. They have proven to be very hardy animals, with many instances where a tenrec has survived where a hedgehog in the same condition would not. They can occasionally suffer from calcium deficiencies (related to diet) and tooth decay (related to torpor or advanced age), both which can be avoided with basic preventative measures.

Climbing

Hedgehogs are actually fairly decent at climbing, but only in one direction. The hooked shape of their front claws allows for a good enough grip on some textures that they can scale some surfaces that are mostly vertical, such as the back of a couch, and with a little bit of determination they can use the barred wall of a cage for the same purpose. However, they don't have the overall physique or foot structure to be able to maintain proper balance or to maneuver in precarious perches. The result of climbing, therefore, is falling. Though their quills can function as a cushion of sorts, if the hedgehog balls up on reflex before impact, it can't be assumed that they will be protected in that way. There are enough instances of hedgehogs breaking legs or suffering other injury from falls that it should be discouraged. For this reason, the most ideal enclosure for a hedgehog is one with a single level, and solid walls are preferred. Ramps, second levels, and accessible wired walls often require some DIY modification to ensure a hedgehog's safety.

Tenrecs are very capable climbers, and are considered to be semi-arboreal. All of their feet have very dexterous toes with long, hooked claws, which allows them to achieve a strong grip on many objects and surfaces. They will utilize all sorts of climbing items, and their enclosure can be accessorized with various

Wheel

Hedgehogs need to have a wheel in the cage. It is a focus of their nocturnal activity, and provides a main source of enrichment and exercise. The wheel must have a solid surface; although traction grooves are acceptable, they are not necessary and less than ideal, because they are rough on the feet and make cleaning more difficult. Wire wheels of any kind should not be used for a hedgehog, because they can easily harm the feet. Size requirements must be adhered to for the hedgehog's comfort and ease of use, and to avoid long-term spinal injury: 4" minimum running width (5" is preferred); 12" minimum diameter (for any store-bought wheel) or 10.5"-11" diameter (for a bucket wheel). Noise, stability, ease of cleaning, and overall quality should also be considered. Not only does the wheel need to stand up to considerable use (as much as 10+ miles every night for some hedgehogs), it also needs to be cleaned due to a hedgehog's habit of pooping while they run.

Tenrecs benefit from having a wheel in their enclosure, although it is not absolutely mandatory, especially if a larger and more elaborate set up is provided. Based on their body size, a minimum diameter of approx. 9" is appropriate. Although they can move very quickly in short bursts, they are not designed for long distances at any great speed, so they will utilize a solid wheel in the expected way, but at more of a casual trot or stroll instead of a true run. They will also use a wire wheel, and can do so safely because of their dexterous feet and secure grip. Instead of just being used for running, a wire wheel primarily functions as a climbing toy, and will even be held onto as a preferred sleeping spot. With this purpose in mind, the best wire wheel option is one with a "grate" style (rather than rungs), and without a cross-bar (which a tenrec may get pinched by during use). If possible given space considerations, both types should be provided in the enclosure.